Few studies have been conducted concerning the racial differences between Black Skin and White skin. Six studies have recently undertaken the task to have a better understanding of the needs of individuals with Black skin by employing objective methods. Those studies discuss transepidermal water loss (TEWL), water content (WC), corneocyte variability, blood vessel reactivity, elastic recovery/extensibility, pH gradient, lipid content, surface microflora, microscopic evaluation of mast cell granules, and confocal microscopy studies.
According to these studies, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) is greater in Black skin than White skin. Concerning desquamation, Blacks have a 2.5 times greater spontaneous desquamation rate compared to Whites and Asians. Another factor skincare formulators must consider is that Black people tend to have low skin pH.
Microscopic evaluation reveals that Black skin contains larger mast cell granules, and differences in structural properties and enzymes of mast cells compared to White skin, possibly accounting for differences in pruritus experienced by the individuals of these racial groups. Lastly, Black skin has higher elastic recovery than White skin in the face area.
To explain these studies in a skincare context, an increase of transepidermal water loss means Black consumers should use skincare products that contend a sufficient amount of humectants. Humectants attract water to the skin and help the skin stay moisturized. Humectants can be synthetic or natural.
Many products marketed to Black consumers are laced with harmful ingredients. It is time for Black consumers to support black beauty brands.
Wesley, N.O., Maibach, H.I. Racial (Ethnic) Differences in Skin Properties. Am J Clin Dermatol 4, 843–860 (2003). https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304120-00004.